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Traveling to the Galapagos Islands on your own: the best tours, beaches and sights of the enchanted islands Update August 2024: as of August 1, 2024, the fees to enter the Galapagos have risen to $200 for foreigners over 12 years old, and to $30 for Ecuadorians over 12 years old. The Galapagos Islands have been a protected National Park since 1959, with specific rules to follow, for example, you cannot enter with products foreign to the ecosystem and you cannot be less than 2 meters from the animals. These are the other rules.
Number of islands: 18 main islands (with more than 1 km2) and several islets. Of these, 3 are the most populated and where you can make a base: Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal and Isabela.
Currency: Dollar (USD). Be careful, ATMs and credit card machines are not common in the Galapagos, so be prepared to bring a good wad of cash. Daily budget: Expensive. It will depend on whether you are traveling on your own, on a cruise, and also on your travel style. Climate: Mild all year round and quite unpredictable. Here we tell you the best times to visit the Galapagos. Language: Spanish (the Galapagos are part of Ecuador).
Population: 25,000 people. The population is controlled and, as much as you fall in love with the islands, you will not be able to stay to live there, only if you are a descendant of someone who is a resident or you marry someone from Galapagos Time zone: time difference with Spain of 6 or 7 hours less depending on the time of year (Ecuador and Galapagos do not change time twice a year as in Spain) Tips: included in the bill (usually 10%) but optional (you can ask to have it removed, although it is normal to leave it) Prepaid mobile internet price: $10 for 2GB with Claro. More information about internet, telephone and SIM card The first thing is to investigate, based on the days you have, what you are most interested in seeing, both for the probability of seeing some species and natural paradises. From there you choose which island would be the most interesting for you to make a base or perhaps, like us, you have time to explore and make a base in the 3 main ones: San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz and Isabela. From each base island you will do some tours as most of the impressive sites are within a short boat ride so it is also important to do your research on these tours. We collaborate with Chokotrip to do some of the tours. He has tested and works directly with different operators, and you can book the tours directly on his website and pay part of it in advance (this way you won't have to carry so much cash to the Galapagos as dataphones are not very common there) so we recommend it.
June to December: during this time, the weather is cooler, there are usually clouds in the sky and it doesn't rain. The sea is rougher and the water temperature drops considerably (but many animals prefer fresh water so you will probably also encounter more marine life)
How to get to Galapagos?
To get to Galapagos you have to go by air, from Quito or Guayaquil (Ecuador). We read that flights tend to be cheaper from Guayaquil. So the first thing is to look for a flight from where you live (or other options if you live in Ecuador or nearby) to Ecuador.
Which airline to fly to Galapagos with?
There are several airlines that fly to Galapagos, from Quito and from Guayaquil: Avianca, Latam and Aeroregional. The ideal way to get a flight at a good price is to compare all the companies (as we said you can use Skyscanner or Kiwi) and if possible, have some flexibility in the days to fly (when we searched for flights there were differences of up to $300 from one day to the next!).
There are two airports in the Galapagos Islands: Baltra (on the island of Santa Cruz) and San Cristobal. Another way to save money is to buy a one-way flight to one island and a return flight from another, since it is not necessarily more expensive and you save a boat trip between islands (which costs $30).

Entrance to the Galapagos National Park and Taxes
To enter the Galapagos National Park as a foreigner over 12 years old, you must pay $200 in fees + $20 for a transit control card. Foreigners under 12 years old pay $100 + $20. People from Ecuador pay between $15 and $50, and people from CAN and Mercosur communities pay between $50 and $100. You can check all the details of the new prices here
Important! The price for foreigners was $100 before, it rose to double ($200) in August 2024. You can see the updated prices here
The $20/person for the transit control card will be paid at the National Institute of the Galapagos office at the airport in Guayaquil or Quito. Be careful! You must keep the transit control card until you leave the Galapagos, don't lose it!
The $200/person fee will be paid upon arrival at the Park, at the airport in San Cristóbal or Baltra (Santa Cruz) and must be in cash, so don't forget to bring cash from the mainland.
Instead of those $200, adult citizens of Ecuador must pay $30 and adult citizens of the Andean Community and Mercosur must pay $100. In addition, to enter Isabela Island you have to add an additional $10 "municipal tax" to enter the island.
Which Galapagos island is best to visit?
There are 3 main islands that you can explore on your own and from which the different tours depart: San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela. Each one has its own particularities and all are interesting. In our opinion, there is nothing "dispensible" in the Galapagos, you will simply have to define priorities...
San Cristóbal has an airport (small, 15 minutes walk from the Puerto Baquerizo boardwalk) and has one of the famous tours of the Galapagos, the León Dormido tour. It was our gateway to the archipelago and it is where we would recommend you start. Getting to the island of the sea lions par excellence (really, sea lions are everywhere) and much smaller, quieter and more authentic than Santa Cruz is the best appetizer for what you are going to experience later.
Santa Cruz is the most populated, the most built and the best located to get to know the other islands (it is in the center). From this island you can access the tour that contains the famous postcard of the Galapagos: Bartolomé Island. It is the island with the most tourist offers (accommodations, shops, restaurants) and has the largest airport in the archipelago (in Baltra, an island that is right next door). As it has some of the most famous tours and many activities to do on your own, it can be a good option if you have few days. Isabela is the largest but the least populated (of the populated ones) and hides many pearls around its 6 volcanoes, 5 of which are active. It won the position of our favorite Galapagos island, especially for the island itself and the independent plans to do there. Although stepping on the active Sierra Negra volcano or swimming under the lava tunnels of Cabo Rosa were two incredible tours. It is the least paved island, the quietest and where you can enjoy incredible sunsets on the beach, next to your house, accompanied by some chifles.
What to see in San Cristóbal
San Cristóbal was our gateway to the Galapagos. For that reason, it has a special place in our memory. We picked up our backpacks at the only arrivals belt at the small airport, stamped the transit card that promised us giant tortoises and set off towards the boardwalk that was a 10-minute walk away. The heat made the asphalt ripple on the horizon and we no longer knew if what we saw was real or an animal mirage. As we got closer we saw something we had read so much about: sea lions and wolves everywhere. Sleeping in the shade of a tree, stretching out in the middle of the road between bikes and the occasional car, crossing a zebra crossing.
And the fact is that San Cristóbal is the island of sea lions. They are like the dogs of the island, but instead of barking as a soundtrack, you hear growls. And a rather strong smell. Even the most famous tour on the island (and one of the most famous in Galapagos) bears its name: León Dormido. For these reasons and because it is smaller, more authentic and less populated than Santa Cruz, it seems to us to be the best island to start your adventure in Galapagos.

San Cristóbal on your own (free or very cheap plans)
Playa Oro
The beach that is right at the beginning of the boardwalk was the one that gave us the best memory of arriving in Galapagos with those dozens of sea lions at dusk, and there are several colonies of them that live there.
Go to Playa Oro at dusk and enjoy the show: the silhouettes of the sea lions will move between the orange lights of the sunset while they play, the pups suckle, sleep or roll around in the sand.
Playa Mann
On the best beach near the boardwalk of Puerto Baquerizo where there is also a kind of food court: three beach bars in a row where you can eat or drink something. It is usually more crowded than the other spots on the island precisely because of its proximity to the town, but it is perfect for an end of the day where you can watch the sunset or take a dip among sea lion pups
Lobería Beach
As the name suggests, this is a beach where you will be accompanied by sea lions, both sunbathing and playing in the water. It is also the territory of iguanas, we saw quite a few. You can go there on foot (about 20 minutes from the boardwalk, without shade) or by taxi. A taxi takes about 5 minutes and costs about $3. You can also negotiate with the taxi to pick you up at a certain time, paying about $10 round trip.
At the beginning of the trail to get to Lobería there is a kiosk that sells empanadas, water (large bottle at $2.75) and rents snorkeling equipment for $5 for the duration. In the Galapagos it is always a good idea to take some snorkeling goggles with you, you never know what wonder you can find in the sea. At this same kiosk you can order a taxi if it is open, to return to the town.

Cerro Tijeretas and Punta Carola
Another great thing to do in San Cristóbal is a 2-hour walk that starts at the Interpretation Center passing by Cerro Tijeretas (and Tijeretas viewpoint) and ends at Punta Carola.
Puerto Baquerizo Boardwalk
The main artery of the only town in San Cristóbal is where you can find most of the shops, tour agencies, diving centers, some bars where you can enjoy an “Endémica” beer and, of course, sea lions galore.

León Dormido Tour
The most famous of all the tours in San Cristóbal and, for us, a must-do is the León Dormido Tour. This was the only boat tour we did from San Cristóbal. It is a very popular tour and it usually sells out, so we recommend that you book it in advance
Swim in the middle of the two imposing volcanic ash rocks whose silhouette reminds us of a sleeping sea lion in the middle of the sea. It is one of the most emblematic places in the Galapagos (known as Kicker Rock in English) and these rock formations reach 148 meters in height.

In addition, you will pass by one of the most beautiful beaches that we have seen, not in the Galapagos but in the world: Cerro Brujo Beach, with fine white sand, a sea with different shades of blue and rocks that resemble a sleeping sea lion in the background. There is also the possibility that the day you go the stop will be at other beaches, equally paradisiacal, such as Playa Manglecito or Playa Puerto Grande.

Duration of the Tour: from 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Snorkeling price: $124/person
Diving price: $180/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), short wetsuit, life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Española Island Tour
This is the only island in the Galapagos where you can see albatrosses, so if seeing this species in its habitat is one of the reasons for visiting the enchanted islands, don't miss this tour, especially between April and December. If you're not a big fan of albatrosses, keep in mind that this is one of the most expensive tours.
Apart from seeing the albatross birds, you'll take a two-hour walk around Española Island with incredible views where you'll see lava iguanas, marine iguanas, sea lions, Nasca boobies and blue-footed boobies. To rest, take a dip and do some good snorkeling on Gardner Islet.
Tour duration: 7:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Price: $219/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), short wetsuit, life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Punta Pitt Tour
Punta Pitt has something similar to Bartolomé Island in store for you (which we will tell you about on the tours from Santa Cruz), a 1-hour walk with landscapes from another planet where you will greet blue-footed and red-footed boobies. And, of course, snorkeling on Pitt Island among fish, sea lions, sea turtles and corals.
Tour duration: from 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Price: $176/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), short wetsuit, life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Lobos Island Tour
Just 25 minutes by boat from Puerto Baquerizo is Lobos Island, so if you want to be up close to blue-footed chicks, frigates (common and royal) and sea lions in their natural habitat, a half-day tour is ideal.
Tour duration: 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. or 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Price: $105/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), short wetsuit, life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Taxi tour to the Upper Part
To get to know the upper part of the island of San Cristóbal, the ideal thing is to negotiate with a taxi-van that will take you to the main and authorized points (it takes half a day / about 4 hours, depending on the time you are in each place): Laguna del Junco, Galapaguera, Playa Puerto Chino and the Casa del Árbol.
To do this tour, the taxi will cost you between $60 and $80, so the ideal is that there are 4 people to share the taxi since you can fit up to 4. If you are 2 people like us, you can find out if anyone is interested in going too at the hostel you are staying at or at the tourist office. Right there, at the tourist office in San Cristóbal or on the boardwalk is where you can get the taxis and negotiate. The tour will take approximately 4 hours.
Tour duration: 4 hours, leaving at the time you want.
Price: $60 to $80 in total to be shared between a maximum of 4 people
Includes: Taxi and driver making the indicated stops; lunch and any equipment are not included.
Here we tell you more about the places visited on the tour to the upper part
La Laguna del Junco
After climbing for about 10 minutes on foot (Fofisano difficulty level: easy), you will contemplate the views of this impressive freshwater volcanic lagoon, responsible for providing drinking water to the entire island.
Galapaguera del Cerro Colorado
The second stop will be Galapaguera where you can see giant tortoises in the wild and also see some tiny ones in the hatchery, or rather, in the Jacinto Gordillo reproduction laboratory. The giant tortoise of San Cristóbal is endemic, that is to say you can only find it in the wild here, and it is in danger of extinction. This hatchery is designed to preserve the species and improve the status of the tortoise population on the island: when they lay eggs, they are immediately collected to be artificially incubated. The hatchlings are cared for in captivity until they are 5 years old, at which point they are repatriated to their natural habitat. The scientific community is still not 100% sure how long these turtles live, but they say that they are more than 100 years old for sure.
Puerto Chino Beach
One of the best beaches for surfing on the island, with luck you will find some turtles and sea lions while swimming. We were so impressed by its beauty as soon as we arrived that we skipped the last stop, the tree house. This last stop is where, apparently, you can eat local Galapagos food. We enjoyed the beautiful Puerto Chino more in the company of a few pelicans and boobies, and in the afternoon we went to Lobería beach. Where to sleep in San Cristóbal
We were clear that we wanted accommodation in the only town in San Cristóbal, Puerto Baquerizo, and if possible with a kitchen to save on meals and dinners. There are several accommodation options of this type, rooms with shared kitchen or even apartments with kitchen, for all tastes and budgets, take a look at this link.
Another aspect that we looked at when looking for accommodation specifically in Galapagos is that it includes free filtered water since on the islands the tap water is not drinkable for any type of consumption. Don't be surprised if Galapagos accommodation seems expensive compared to what it is, it's true. What you have to keep in mind is that you are inside a Natural Park and just being here is a privilege.
We finally found a very simple but comfortable room that met our requirements: less than $50/night for the room, the air conditioning worked perfectly, the hot water was excellent, the shared kitchen was clean with all kinds of utensils, the location was about a 10-minute walk from the boardwalk and, very importantly, it included free cold treated water.
There are several options for staying in San Cristóbal, from the most refined to the most economical. While we were there we noted down some options that seemed great as an alternative to ours, for other types of budget.
If you are looking for something dreamy, the Galápagos Sunset Hotel (from $190/night) was one of the best looking, both for the location (right in the center, a step away from the port to go on tours and next to the beach to relax) and for the views from the room. The breakfasts, from the photos, also look great:
Where to eat in San Cristóbal
We ate at the central market in San Cristóbal the day we went to the upper part of the island by taxi. When we returned from the tour, we asked to stop there to order a packed lunch. There are several stalls with local food and lunches for 3-4$.
We had dinner at Giuseppe’s one night. It is known for its pastas, pizzas and burgers. We chose a carbonara and a tuna burger (drinking two ice teas) and paid 30$.
In Playa Mann there are a couple of beach bars with lunch of the day for 5$ (soup, main course and juice), only main course and juice costs 4$. They have extra delicious juices for 3$ each.
For a few beers, you can buy them cold in the shops on the boardwalk for 1.75$. In the bars it will cost you 3-4$. The craft beer from Galapagos (La Endémica) costs the same in the bar and in the shop.

How to get to the airport in San Cristóbal
The airport is a 15-minute walk from the only town on the island, Puerto Baquerizo, and that's how we went when we arrived with our backpacks. If you prefer not to walk, you can go by taxi, which will cost you approximately $3. Taxis are waiting outside the airport, at the only exit, on the only street there is.
The airport is very small, there are no several exits or several baggage claim carousels, so you can't get lost.
What to see in Santa Cruz
The most paved and populated island in the Galapagos is the most touristic by far without losing its Galapagos essence, especially if we move away from Charles Darwin Avenue. It is the most visited island, the one where the most nationals from the peninsula arrive and the best located to get to know the others. It is from Santa Cruz that the most tours leave, some of the most famous in the Galapagos, and also the one that offers many free and independent plans to do. If you only have a few days to visit the National Park,
Santa Cruz on your own (free or very cheap plans)
Tortuga bay
You can walk to the beautiful beach of Bahía Tortuga from the center of Puerto Ayora in about 30 minutes. Half an hour to go and another half hour to return. If you prefer, you can go by boat for $20/person (round trip) from Puerto Ayora or walk and return by boat for $10/person.
Be careful! There are no services in Tortuga Bay so bring water and something to eat. It is a very nice walk (you will have to write down your details when entering the path, and when returning) where you will be accompanied by the singing of the birds and the occasional iguana. Of course, there is no shade so don't forget your hat and sunscreen. When you start to sweat a lot, you will see that the turquoise blue in the background will appear to you as the "light at the end of the tunnel."
When we arrive we find a beautiful beach where swimming is not allowed, Playa Brava. If you like surfing, this is the place for you, but if you want to take a dip, you have to continue walking to Playa Mansa. We arrived at Playa Mansa, a white sand beach with calm turquoise sea, perfect for kayaking (you can rent a kayak for $10) or snorkeling (don't forget to bring your snorkeling gear). Several iguanas accompanied us on the beach, and when Inês approached the mangrove, she saw a few small sharks, since the roots of the mangroves are full of nutrients and are where some animals gather. You can also see turtles.
Laguna de las Ninfas
On your way back from Tortuga Bay you can enter the world of mangroves around Laguna de las Ninfas and enjoy the peace and the soundtrack of the birds. The walkway you walk along to reach the lagoon says it all: “Listen to the silence.”
The mangroves are the main pillar of the marine life ecosystem of Santa Cruz and one of the most characteristic images of the Galapagos landscape. This estuary (which is apparently formed by the daily meeting of rising salt water from the sea and descending fresh water from the cracks) has a unique ecosystem and, being so close to the center, it is worth a visit. However, as much as you might fancy a dip, swimming is not allowed. Previously, you could walk around the lagoon (it took about 20 minutes, and you could learn about it through the many panels with curiosities about the mangroves) but now you can't (thanks Jorge for letting us know! You can only see the lagoon from the platform. The lagoon closes at 6pm.

Las Grietas
Another great plan in Santa Cruz where wearing goggles and a snorkel is essential is to go to Las Grietas! to swim among these volcanic rocks.
Since the end of 2021, it is mandatory to hire a guide and pay a fee of $10 to visit Las Grietas, in addition to the fact that the maximum number of people who can be there at the same time has been limited to 35 and the maximum time of stay to 1h30. Residents of the Galapagos can access for free with a maximum time of stay of 45 minutes. Thanks Jorge for letting us know about the change! More information here
To get there you must go by boat ($0.80 per person and trip) from Puerto Ayora, the journey takes 3 minutes. Then, upon arrival, a 20-minute walk through incredible inhospitable landscapes and enormous cacti. Be careful! There is only one place to buy water on the way. If before reaching Las Grietas you feel like taking a dip, you can do so at Playa de los Alemanes, a beautiful little beach between mangroves with crystal-clear water. Along the way you will also pass by some natural salt flats created by sea water.
When you reach Las Grietas you will understand why it is a must-do on your own in Santa Cruz. This impressive geological formation has been formed by a fault that allows fresh water and salt water to join together to form this curious place. The salinity of the water depends on the tide and the rains of the previous days.
More than for the marine fauna (we have not seen much beyond some colorful fish), it stands out for the impressive color of the water and the incredible visibility. It's amazing to swim in the middle of the giant walls of these rock formations and look at them from below... and to contemplate them from above, on the Bay Trail!
The best time to go to the Cracks is when the sun is high and shining perpendicularly on the crack, at midday. The thing is that everyone thinks the same thing, so there is a lot of crowding at the entrance. The trick: go all the way to the bottom so that your fin doesn't touch anyone.
Darwin Research Station (don't go to see the turtles) and La Ratonera Beach
If you've been told about being able to see the turtles at the Charles Darwin Research Station on the island, we tell you that we didn't go and we recommend that you don't go. One of the authorized guides of the Galapagos National Park that we met on one of the previous days told us that they keep the turtles in captivity there and it is a circus that clashes with what is promoted in the Park: sustainable and responsible tourism that is respectful of all its inhabitants, people and animals.
As you know, in our blog we advocate traveling responsibly and denouncing any activity that involves animal abuse, so if you want to know more about the history of the famous Galapagos turtles, their discovery and evolution, you can do so in El Chato (which we talk about below in the tour of the upper part) but not here where they keep turtles in captivity.
We do recommend that you visit the rest of the Darwin Scientific Station, where you can learn about the formation of the islands as well as the species that inhabit them.
On the other hand, there is a small path at the end of the Charles Darwin Station that leads to a beach called Ratonera. If the iguanas let you pass because they like to camp freely there, they say it is a nice beach.
Puerto Ayora Boardwalk
This is the busiest area of ??Puerto Ayora where you can watch the daily life of the local people and the busy fishermen working on the dock taking out fresh fish for the market. You will see many pelicans and fewer sea lions than in San Cristóbal, but in the port there is always one or two resting in the sun...or the shade.
In the port, at dusk, come closer and look down: you will see a lot of white-tip sharks in the sea at dinner time. Galapagos never ceases to surprise you, even in its urban centers.
Tours from Santa Cruz
Tour to Bartolomé Island
This is the tour that contains the famous postcard of Galapagos, with its two beaches and the famous pinnacle, which you will see in many places promoting the archipelago:
Bartolomé Island is one of the youngest islands. Its name comes from the naturalist and friend of Darwin, David Bartolomew, who was the lieutenant on board the HMS Beagle, the ship on which the famous expedition took place, from which the notes that preceded the book "The Origin of Species" came out. It is an extinct volcano and such an emblematic place because it represents what all the Galapagos islands were many years ago: of volcanic origin with pioneer species that are able to survive in these types of conditions, especially lack of water.
During the visit to the island (which, like most, can only be visited on a tour, and this one is also one of the most expensive) the authorized guide of the park gives a detailed explanation about the geological origin of the islands that we told you about in the introduction. Do you remember the hot spot that expels islands that move to the right?
But the greatest attraction of the island is the breathtaking landscapes. They say they are the most beautiful in the Galapagos
After a lot of learning, climbing a few steps, enjoying breathtaking views, seeing boobies, frigates and even two sea turtles copulating (how violent!) we went into the water to do a bit of snorkelling and the best thing happened: we saw our first Galapagos penguins! Initially they were so calm sunbathing on top of a rock and suddenly they dived into the water without caring that we were there.

This tour, although it is one of the most expensive in the Galapagos, usually sells out so we advise you to book well in advance. It is also one of the tours in which you spend the most time on the boat due to the distance from the island (2h30 there and 2h30 back) and one of the longest since the boats do not leave from Puerto Ayora but from the Itabaca Channel. The good thing is that during the boat trip you appreciate the landscape and the fauna. We saw a lot of endemic birds, turtles and even two manta rays jumping!

Tour duration: from 6:00 to 16:00 or from 07:00 to 17:00.
Price: $230/person (it can be a little more or a little less, depending on the boat).
Includes: Land transportation (45 minutes to the Itabaca channel), snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, food on board, water, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Tour to Santa Fe Island
This tour includes snorkeling in the bay (without landing on the island, it is not possible) and ends at Playa Escondida, a paradisiacal beach where you can observe small baby Galapagos sharks and also colonies of marine iguanas.

Tour duration: from 7:00 to 16:00.
Price: $124/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, snack, water, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.

Pinzón Island Tour
We are sorry not to do this tour, but next time we will. On this tour there is a high probability of swimming with penguins, especially if you go during the cold water season. And at the first stop, Penguin Bay, you can swim with the funny Galapagos penguins, with turtles and the occasional Galapagos shark that will come up to you curiously. Of course, you can also swim with sea lions here.
Afterwards, the tour continues to La Roca, a 20-meter rock in the middle of the sea where you can spot blue-footed boobies! It ends at a beach: Playa La Fe or Playa Las Palmitas where you can relax and swim with sea turtles.
Tour duration: from 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Price: $135/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, lunch, snack, water, certified guide from the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.

North Seymour Island Tour
This is a tour for someone who loves walking through the wild nature of the Galapagos. First, before reaching North Seymour, you will stop at a beach called Las Bachas to walk to a lagoon where, with luck, you will be able to see flamingos. Afterwards, you will snorkel on that same beach where you will swim with sea turtles. Depending on the boat, instead of Las Bachas you can go to Mosquera islet to snorkel, which is also a key spot for snorkeling.
When you arrive at Seymour, you will walk for 1h30 among frigates (those birds with the inflated red chest), blue-footed boobies and iguanas.
Like the Bartolomé Island tour, the Seymour Island tour is one of the most expensive. You must also first take land transportation to the Itabaca Channel and then board the boat. Also, you must book in advance as it usually sells out.
Tour duration: 7:00 to 16:00 or 07:50 to 17:00.
Price: $220/person (may be a little more or a little less, depending on the boat).
Includes: Land transportation (45 minutes to the Itabaca Channel), snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, food on board, water, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.

Floreana Island Tour
The ideal tour for people passionate about history, as the main attractions of the island are historical. At the “Asilo de la Paz” you can see the pirates’ cave and a freshwater spring. Both are located at the base of the 450-meter-high hill in the island’s agricultural area.
Here you will also learn about the first families who arrived and settled in the Galapagos and the story of the “Baroness,” a woman with two lovers who is said to have claimed to be the owner of Floreana.
Afterwards, you will walk for almost 1 km to “La Loberia” to see, as the name suggests, sea lions and also marine iguanas. The tour ends at Playa Negra to relax and snorkel.
Tour duration: from 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Price: $160/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, water, snack, certified guide from the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Tour to Plazas Sur
On this tour, after an hour of sailing you will walk along a loop trail through inhospitable landscapes (no shade, mind you) where you will encounter swallow-tailed gulls, land iguanas, hybrid iguanas (if you're lucky) and, of course, some colonies of sea lions.
Just like to get to Bartolomé Island and Seymour Island, to get to the Plazas Sur dock you must first go by land transportation to the Itabaca Channel and then get on the boat, which makes this tour one of the longest and most expensive.
Tour duration: from 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. or from 7:50 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Price: $215/person.
Includes: Ground transportation (45 minutes to the Itabaca Channel), snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, food on board, snack, certified guide from the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Tour to Chinese Hat Island
One of the most exclusive tours in the Galapagos. Only two boats are authorized to arrive here, so it is recommended to book well in advance, such as to go to Bartolomé and Seymour.
After 2 hours of sailing, the first stop will make you believe you are in the Caribbean, a dip in turquoise waters on a beach of fine white sand. Afterwards, you will walk towards the large volcanic cone that is located in the center of the island and that gives it its name: they say it looks like a Chinese hat. To rest from the walk, snorkel among tropical fish, marine iguanas feeding on coral, turtles and, with luck, you can even see penguins here, on the James coast.
Next you'll arrive at Sullivan Bay for another hike, this one shorter, over the solidified Pahoe Hoe lava flow among the beautiful sprouting cacti. And more snorkeling around the bay to finish. Definitely one of the tours we have on our bucket list to do when we return to the paradise of the enchanted islands.

Depending on the departure day (confirm in advance if you prefer this option), this tour is also combined with Bartolomé Island. First you visit Bartolomé Island and snorkel there and then continue to Sombrero Island to hike.
To get to Sombrero Chino Island, as well as to Bartolomé Island (they are not very far from each other) you also have to go to the Itabaca Channel to start sailing.
Tour duration: 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Price: $265/person.
Includes: Land transportation (45 minutes to the Itabaca Channel), snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, food on board, snack, guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Tour to Loberia Islet and Playa de los Perros
One of the most economical tours in Santa Cruz is the one known as the Bay tour. You will pass by the so-called Lobería islet (named after the colony of sea lions there) where you can snorkel. Afterwards, the boat will stop at Punta Estada, a gulf of turquoise waters where you will do another snorkeling session and you will be able to spot some boobies or frigates. You will also be taken to the so-called "shark channel" where you can observe sharks and, from the lookout point, contemplate the view of the upper part of Santa Cruz. After a 10-minute walk you will arrive at Playa de los Perros where you will see a large colony of Galapagos marine iguanas. Finally, the tour will end at one of the most emblematic sites of Santa Cruz where, as we mentioned before, you can also go on your own, Las Grietas.
Duration of the Tour: from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. approx. or from 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. approx.
Price: $45.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins). This tour is sold in most agencies and operators on the main avenue, Charles Darwin Avenue in Puerto Ayora.
Taxi tour to the upper part of Santa Cruz
As on the island of San Cristóbal, to get to know the upper part of Santa Cruz it is best to negotiate with a taxi or taxi-van that will take you to the authorized points. The taxi ride will cost approximately $50/total and you can negotiate with the taxi how long to stay in each place. We did not go (because we went to the San Cristóbal galapaguera and lava tunnels in Isabela and decided to prioritize other plans) but here is what we have researched about the places you will visit on this tour:
– Los Gemelos: You will see two impressive solidified lava formations, hollowed out by the sinking of the earth. There you will be able to see some endemic birds. – Lava tunnels: You can use a flashlight to walk through two tunnels formed by solidified lava from the main lava flows on the island.
– Galapaguera El Chato: You will meet the largest and oldest tortoises in all of the Galapagos. Here you will have to pay $5 to enter. In this Galapaguera the tortoises are free and their natural processes are not interfered with in order to avoid any changes to their behaviour. What is controlled, as we explained in the Galapaguera of Cerro Colorado, is the protection of the eggs from predators to ensure the continuity of the species.

Where to stay in Santa Cruz
As we mentioned before, taking into account that in Galapagos the tap water is not drinkable for any type of consumption and in supermarkets the bottles of water are expensive (approximately $2.50 for 2l), something we look for is that the accommodation includes free filtered water. Also, in the case of Santa Cruz, we wanted to stay near the Puerto Ayora dock because of the tour boats, we didn't know if we were going to do 2 or 3 tours (finally we did two: Bartolomé and Santa Fé). The prices seemed higher to us compared to the peninsula (and even to San Cristóbal) in relation to quality-price but, we can't forget, we are inside a natural park. Here you can find a lot of accommodations near Puerto Ayora.
The other requirements that we wanted our accommodation in Santa Cruz to meet, if possible, in addition to drinking water included and location near the dock, were that the kitchen was equipped (although we actually ended up dining out several times, there are plenty of options for cheap eating in Santa Cruz), hot shower water and, if possible, quiet at night, perfect for resting after intense days in the Galapagos.
We stayed at the Tintorera Guest House (from $42/night) and it met all the requirements. It has suites and apartments with kitchens. If you stay longer you can try to negotiate in person, once there, but of course, you risk not having availability for all the days you want to stay. In the end we stayed in an apartment for the price of a double room with bathroom. It is about 15 minutes from the center but includes bikes
Where to eat in Santa Cruz
Our favorite plan when returning from the tours was to go to the municipal market, around 6 pm, and buy a freshly made empanada (for $1): delicious.
For dinner, the best option is to go to Charles Binford Street, known as Kiosko Street. From 6:30 p.m. onwards, the whole street is closed to traffic and filled with tables and chairs from restaurants, or rather, from kiosks selling fresh fish and seafood (be careful what you order, because not everything is from there). Lobster and shrimp (not the one we know, but a type of lobster) alternate during the closed season. Shrimp for two with rice, chips and salad is $25, and a large litre beer is $5.

If you are missing something more “guiri”, Charles Darwin Street is your place. There we tried “El Muelle de Darwin” (a very tasty large sandwich to share and two ice teas for $16) and “Tropic Bird” (lunch of the day $5, $3 if you order only the main course and juice). You can't miss out on trying the delicious craft beers in front of the sea on the same avenue, at Santa Cruz Brewery ($5 for a half pint).
How to get to Seymour (Baltra) Airport in Santa Cruz and vice versa
Santa Cruz airport is not on Santa Cruz Island but on a small island next door, Baltra Island. To get to Baltra Airport from Puerto Ayora (or vice versa) it will take you approximately 1h15 on three different transports. In parts:
The first thing is to get from Puerto Ayora to the Port of Santa Cruz. To get to the Port of Santa Cruz, the cheapest way is to go on the local bus ($5/person) but first you will have to go to the bus terminal, walking or by taxi. We prefer to go by taxi directly to the Port of Santa Cruz: we have the contact of the shared taxi that we used that cost $8.75/person: +593 98 807 0487. This trip took approximately 40 minutes. Both the bus and the taxi will drop you off at the Itabaca canal.
Once at the Itabaca canal, you will take a sea taxi ($1/person) to the Port of Baltra. The trip takes approximately 5 minutes, you just have to wait for the boat to fill up.
Finally, on the other side of the canal you have to take a bus that takes you to the airport for $5/person. They themselves move the suitcases from the boat to the bus and it takes approximately 5 minutes to get to the airport.
In total the trip with the 3 transports was 1h15m and 8.75+1+5=14.65$/person.
If you land at the Baltra airport and want to go to Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) you will have to take the same trip with the 3 transports but in reverse. It is easier to share a taxi with other people since you will all go together on the bus.

What to see in Isabela
The largest island in the Galapagos (but one of the least populated and the least touristy of the 3 base islands) won the position of our favorite island and was the island we liked the most to explore on our own. It welcomed us with penguins in the water in the port and a lot of sea lions when we arrived. We came across more animals than humans, we pedaled among giant turtles and walked barefoot along sandy streets until we saw flamingos. Yes, we only saw one paved street on the entire island, the main street since the others are made of dirt or sand. The days in Isabela were, then, days of living barefoot, of buying empanadas, chifles and a

Main beach of Puerto Villamil
Idyllic. In our opinion, it is the best beach to walk to, on your own, close to the accommodation, of all the beaches on the three base islands we stayed at (San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz and Isabela). It gave us races in the sand with marine iguanas and tropical birds as witnesses, dips in crystal-clear water and best of all, incredible sunsets. We had the ritual of buying some chifles (fried plantains) or empanadas from Don Pipo, a couple of beers and enjoying the farewell to the sun on the beach.
Concha Perla
Another great plan to do on your own in Isabela is to go with your snorkelling kit walking to Concha de Perla (less than 10 minutes from the centre), a lagoon next to the pier where there is a lot of biodiversity! Here you can see, apart from a beautiful coral bottom, different tropical fish, turtles and marine iguanas, and the occasional penguin!
It is ideal for snorkelling because it has no waves or currents, it is sheltered, and the water is completely crystal clear.
Of course, iguanas and sea lions usually camp out freely on the wooden walkway that leads to the lagoon… If there is a rush hour for animals, wait a little while and they will surely let you through. The Concha Perla lagoon closes at 6pm.
Laguna de los Flamingos
This lagoon is an oasis of peace within the oasis of peace that is Isabela. To get there you must follow the path after the Iguana Crossing hotel, and when you see many iguanas sunbathing and a lagoon of reddish waters, you have arrived. When you enter you will be able to appreciate the silence interrupted only by the wings of a flamingo or one of the endemic birds that you can see here. As a picture is worth a thousand words, here we show you what you can see in this lagoon.

If you follow the wooden walkway of the lagoon you will reach the Galapagos Turtle Conservation Center, although we did not go because we arrived at dusk and it had already closed (it closes at 5pm). In any case, according to our research, it seems that the same thing happens as at the Charles Darwin Research Station in Santa Cruz: the turtles are in captivity, which clashes with sustainable and responsible tourism that is respectful of all Galapagos inhabitants, people and animals. If you want to see turtles in the wild, we recommend that you do so on the way to the Wall of Tears, in the next section.

Route to the Wall of Tears
The ideal way to do the walk from Puerto Villamil to the Wall of Tears is to rent a bike, although you can also do it on foot. You can rent the bike at Galapagos Bike&Surf by the hour ($4/hour) or by the day ($20/day).
The route starts at the end of Isabela Beach and until you reach the Wall of Tears it is 5km one way and 5km back, which seems longer because of the burning sun. The entrance to the wall closes at 5pm, so there is no way to go without getting scorched. There are several detours along the route, so the time it takes will depend on how many you do and how long you are at each one. We show you the ones we have done.
– Playa del Amor: from the love of the iguanas that nest here.
Estero Tunnel: a jungle mangrove tunnel (there are up to 4 types of mangrove) where the waves from the sea reach.
The beach: where there is also a huge community of iguanas

The turtle path: We walked past them or on the bike and they didn't even flinch

Mirador de Cerro Orchilla: it is totally worth climbing the steps to enjoy the views of the island, they are impressive. From this viewpoint you can see Puerto Villamil, in the background and Isla Tortuga.
Finally we reached the end of the route, the so-called "Wall of Tears". We sensed from its name that it would be something sad but it was not until we arrived that we found out what it was about. In this place, between 1946 and 1959 the Isabela Penal Colony operated since at that time the island was a destination of exile to punish dissidents, political prisoners and criminals. This wall of volcanic stones is the only evidence left today of the island's harsh past and of the center that ended the lives of many penitentiary inmates. The purpose of this construction is to keep alive the memory of the suffering and the memory of those who died here due to forced labor and abuse of power. This was the only sad place we found in our 2 weeks in Galapagos.
Main square
Where you can feel the island's liveliness since it is where people gather at night. There are several restaurants, shops and kiosks where you can buy an ice cream, a beer or an empanada and enjoy it with the locals.
Tours from Isabela
Cabo Rosa Tunnels Tour
Did you know that Isabela has 6 volcanoes, 5 of which are active? It was precisely one of the active volcanoes of Isabela, the Sierra Negra (which we visited the next day) that created, with the help of the sea, the incredible scenery that you see on the star tour of Isabela: the Cabo Rosa lava tunnels.
Apparently, volcanic lava flows, when in contact with the air, solidify on the outside while the lava continues to flow inside them, creating tunnels. Over time, the roofs of these tunnels collapsed, giving rise to these incredible formations that you can get lost in, in and out of the water.
Tour duration: 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. or 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Price: $125/person.
Includes: Snorkeling equipment (masks and fins), life jacket, water transportation, towel, water, box lunch, certified guide from the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.

Sierra Negra Volcano Tour
The most impressive thing about this tour is the panoramic view of the active volcano's crater and the landscapes you pass through as you go deeper into the volcano inside the crater, which seem to be from another planet.
The "fofisano" difficulty level (our particular scale for trekking) of this hike is medium. There is not much of a climb but the terrain is slippery and unstable in one section and the pace is high, you don't stop much. The hike itself is 16 km (8 km there and 8 km back) which lasts approximately 5 hours. Very important, don't forget to bring appropriate closed footwear (sports shoes) and lots of water (2 liters/person minimum).
Duration of the Tour: from 7:00 to 13:30 or from 11:00 to 17:00.
Price: $45/person.
Includes: Water transportation, box lunch and a guide certified by the Galapagos National Park who speaks Spanish and English.
Tintoreras Island Tour
Another great thing to do in Isabela is to go to Tintoreras Island, which you can go to by boat or kayak. The tour leaves from the beach next to the port towards the islet.
Tortuga Island Tour
We were also told about a tour from Isabela to an island in front (it looks pretty good from the Cerro Orchilla lookout point) called Tortuga Island. Here, apparently, it is ideal for snorkeling and seeing hammerhead sharks!
Where to sleep in Isabela
Once again we stayed in accommodation in Isabela where it was possible to refill our water bottles with filtered water for free, an essential requirement on our trip through the Galapagos.
We stayed in a double room with a private bathroom in a family hostel: Hostal Villamil ($48/night). In Isabela everything is close, the center of the island is very small, so the important thing is to stay on a quiet street where there is no noise at night and this was the case.
Where to eat in Isabela
Before sunset, the obligatory stop is the “Empanadas Don Pipo”, freshly made empanadas (from 3pm to 7pm), at $1. We bought beers in a shop or mini-market for $2. Having a beer with a view of the sea in another way, in a bar, is prohibitive: the same beer costs $7.
How to get to Puerto Villamil
Isabela is the only island of the three base islands that does not have an airport, so the only way to get there is by “fibra” (boat) from Santa Cruz. The journey takes about 2 hours and when you get to Puerto Villamil it takes 5 minutes to walk to the center of the island along the only paved road, you can't get lost.

Where to dive in the Galapagos?
The Galapagos Islands are a true underwater paradise and that is why they are considered one of the best places to dive in the world. The convergence of several marine currents (such as the cold Humboldt and Cromwell currents and the warm Panama current) loaded with nutrients, attract a lot of marine life and make each dive a real spectacle.

What are the best tours in the Galapagos?
This, as always, is subjective and will depend on each person's tastes and what attracts you the most. In case it helps, the most popular tours are the following:
From San Cristóbal: León Dormido (can be done within the full 360º tour)
From Santa Cruz: Bartolomé Island, Santa Fé, Pinzón Island
From Isabela: Cabo Rosa Tunnels and Sierra Negra Volcano
What to do in San Cristóbal
Half day:
Taxi tour to the highlands
Playa Lobería
Malecón and Playa Oro
Playa Mann, Cerro Tijeretas and Punta Carola
Tour to León Dormido
Tour to Isla Lobos
Full day:
Tour to Española Island
Tour to Punta Pitt
What to do in Santa Cruz
Half day:
Taxi tour to the highlands
Tortuga Bay + nymph lagoon
Las Grietas
Malecón, Darwin Scientific Station and La Ratonera Beach
Tour to Isla Pinzón
Tour to North Seymour
Tour of the Bay (Lobería Island and Playa de los Perros)
Day Full:
Bartolomé Island Tour
Santa Fe Tour
Floreana Tour
Plazas Sur Tour
Hamburger Hat Tour
What to do in Isabela
Half day:
Main square and Puerto Villamil beach
Concha Perla snorkeling and Puerto beach
Bike tour to Muro de las Lágrimas and flamingo lagoons
Cabo Rosa tunnels tour
Sierra Negra Volcano tour
Tintoreras Islet tour

Galapagos travel itineraries from 3 to 5 days (less than 1 week)
If you only have a few days to visit the enchanted islands, we recommend that you focus on one island at most to make the most of the days and avoid travel:
Option 1: 4 days in San Cristóbal
Day 1: Arrival by plane and half-day plan (e.g. Malecón and Playa Oro)
Day 2: Tour to León Dormido in the morning, Lobería in the afternoon
Day 3: Tour to the highlands in the morning, tour to Isla Lobos in the afternoon
Day 4: Playa Mann, Snorkel in Cerro Tijeretas and Punta Carola and return by plane
Option 2: 5 days in Santa Cruz
Day 1: Arrival by plane and half-day plan (e.g. Malecón, Darwin Scientific Station and Playa La Ratonera)
Day 2: Tour to Santa Fé
Day 3: Tour to Bartolomé
Day 4: Las Grietas by plane :Day 5: Tortuga Bay + Ninfas lagoon and return by plane
Galapagos travel itineraries for 7 days (1 week)
If you have a week to visit the enchanted islands, we recommend choosing one or two islands at most and focusing the tours on those and avoiding island hopping:
Some examples of itineraries that you can do in a week in Galapagos:
Option 1: a week in Santa Cruz and Isabela
Day 1: Arrival by plane in Santa Cruz and half-day plan (e.g.: Malecón, Darwin Scientific Station and La Ratonera Beach)
Day 2: Tour to Santa Fé
Day 3: Tour to Bartolomé
Day 4: boat to Isabela in the morning, tour to Cabo Rosa tunnels
Day 5: Tour to Sierra Negra volcano in the morning, tintoreras in the afternoon
Day 6: Boat to Santa Cruz, las Grietas upon arrival and tour to the upper part of the island afternoon
Day 7: Tortuga Bay + Ninfas lagoon and return by plane
Option 2: One week in Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal (buy a round trip to one island and return from the other)
Day 1: Arrival by plane to Santa Cruz and half-day plan (e.g. Tortuga Bay and Ninfas lagoon)
Day 2: Tour to Santa Fé
Day 3: Tour to Bartolomé
Day 4: Boat to San Cristóbal in the morning and half-day plan (e.g. Malecón and Playa Oro)
Day 5: Tour to León Dormido in the morning, Lobería in the afternoon
Day 6: Tour to the highlands in the morning, tour to Isla Lobos in the afternoon
Day 7: Playa Mann, Snorkel in Cerro Tijeretas and Punta Carola and return by plane

Transporte: cómo moverse por Galápagos
How to move between islands
Boats between islands in Galapagos: schedules and price
The best way to move between islands is by boat. Speedboats, "fibras" as they are called, cost $30 per trip (by negotiating and/or buying several trips you can get them for $25) and it takes approximately 2h30 for each trip (depending on the state of the sea)
There are not many frequencies but the schedules are fixed and, almost always, punctual (in our experience). These are the schedules

Isla Origen	Isla Destino	Horario de salida	Horario de llegada
Santa Cruz	San Cristóbal	7:00	9:30
Santa Cruz	San Cristóbal	14:00	16:30
Santa Cruz	Isabela	7:00	9:30
Santa Cruz	Isabela	14:00	16:30
Isabela	Santa Cruz	6:00	8:30
Isabela	Santa Cruz	14:00	16:30
San Cristóbal	Santa Cruz	7:00	9:30
San Cristóbal	Santa Cruz	15:00	17:30

You have to be at the port 30 minutes before the boat's departure time, so that your suitcase/backpack can be inspected. When you arrive, you'll see that there are a lot of people: several boat companies operate the same schedule and you'll have to be careful to find your boat (in some cases you'll have to give your name and they'll give you a badge to indicate which boat you're going on).

Flights between islands in the Galapagos: schedules and price
There is also the option of travelling by plane, but apart from the fact that it's more expensive (about $175 per trip, although it varies depending on the season), although we read that if they don't sell enough seats, the flights don't leave, so we think the boat option is more advisable. The companies that operate the flights are Emetebe and Fly Galapagos.
The advantage of the flights is that they last 30 minutes and you can go from San Cristóbal directly to Isabela (something you can't do by boat, you have to transfer in Santa Cruz).
How to get around each island
Within the islands, it is best to walk, rent a bike (check rentals on the island you are on) or take a taxi (in San Cristobal it costs $2 per trip, in Santa Cruz $1.50 per trip).
Estimated budget for 1 week (per person) traveling independently:
Flight from Quito or Guayaquil to Galapagos (round trip): $300
Park entrance and taxes (for non-nationals*): $220
Accommodation: $20/night: $140
Meals: $20/day: $140
Tours: 3-4 tours: $400-500
Transportation: $60 (each boat trip between islands is approximately $30)
Total: about $1200-1300 / person

Notes

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