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The colonial city par excellence, its walled center brings together the most charming facades, squares and temples in Colombia. Its history is marked by its geostrategic location in the Pacific Ocean. That is why it was the main port of entry for slaves and merchandise from Latin America in colonial times, and that is why English navigators wanted to conquer it without success for their empire. La Historia de Cartagena de Indias Founded in 1533 by the Spanish Pedro Heredia, Cartagena de Indias was the second settlement of the colonizers after Santa Marta. It quickly became one of the most important seaports in the Caribbean due to its importance as a transshipment place for loot from the raids through Peru and the slave trade from West Africa. The indigenous people who inhabited the coast, if they were not killed, were subjugated and forced to adopt the Catholic faith. The wealth that was created here did not go unnoticed among the pirates and privateers, mostly English and French. King Philip II therefore ordered the construction of the fortress of San Felipe de Barajas, the largest fort built by the Spanish in Latin America, and an 11km wall surrounding what is now the historic center. At the beginning of the 18th century, at the end of the War of Succession, the Bourbons settled in Spain, who founded the Viceroyalty of New Granada. It included Ecuador, Colombia and Panama and left Cartagena de Indias in a privileged geographical-commercial situation. In 1811, the cry of independence was heard in the neighborhood of Getsemaní and Cartagena de Indias acquired the nickname of La Heroica for the bravery with which the locals confronted the Spanish general Pablo Murillo. However, they were not prepared to govern and the city sank into a long and deep political, economic and social crisis. In the last century there were 3 reasons mainly thanks to which destiny changed again in favor of Cartagena de Indias. Firstly, the Cartagena bay was connected via railway with the port of Calamar on the banks of the Magdalena River, the dorsal vertebra that crosses practically the entire country and is therefore essential for trade and the export of goods. Second, Cartagena managed to stay away from the civil wars between liberals and conservatives and later from the conflict between the guerrillas, the paramilitaries and the state that shook the country for almost 70 years. Instead, it managed to polish its image as a tourist destination of enormous historical-cultural interest, which was recognized by UNESCO by declaring Cartagena de Indias in 1984 a historical and cultural heritage of humanity. Paseo por el centro histórico We entered passing under the clock tower classified by the BBC as one of the most beautiful places in the world. Now we are in the Plaza de los Coches where the mayor's office of Cartagena de Indias is also located. This square was the nerve center of the city during colonization. Here the newly arrived slaves were offered, their owner exchanged gold, spices and valuable garments and the news of the old world and the new colonies arrived. Its arched vaults since then and to this day provide shelter from the harsh Caribbean sun to kiosks, shoe shiners and candy artisans who already inspired Gabriel Garcia Márquez to describe the smell of peanut fryers, the reflections of the sunset on the fish tanks full of candy and the sticky texture of guava sandwich buns. One of the famous delicacies of Cartagena de Indias is called “La Alegría”. Their mixture of millet, fried coconut, panela and anise is so sweet that they say it improves your mood for the entire day. We continue to the Customs Square which, as its name indicates, is another important entrance to the heroic city. We are in front of the emblematic San Pedro Claver church in honor of the defender of subjugated African Americans. They paid tribute to that figure with the inauguration of the Human Rights Headquarters, in addition to some sculptures that represent the jobs of the humble Cartagenians. As we advance through the cobblestone streets, we marvel at the colonial houses painted in cheerful colors with wooden balconies overflowing with bougainvillea. We passed through the lively Plaza Santo Domingo where Gertrudis, a sculpture by Fernando Botero, rests, despite the bustle of masses of tourists from all over the world. You can take a postcard photo of the homonymous church from the corner of Mantilla Street, which is typical. Not so typical is the bookstore that we find in the same place. It is called Abaco and it seems to witness the ups and downs of the city for centuries. Surprisingly, the small establishment, where you can open and read any book on sale accompanied by a cup of coffee and a cinnamon bun, has only been around for 20 years. During the Hays Festival, an important event in the world of international literature that is held in January in Cartagena de Indias, the Liberian Abaco organizes cycles that bring you the richness of the great Latin American writers. We continue our walk and around one o'clock we can find ourselves in the middle of another García Marquezan scene. Students in their uniforms leave their schools in the San Diego neighborhood where the University of Cartagena de Indias is also located in an emblematic 16th century building that stands out over the silhouette of the historic center. They go to the cafeterias to order a red wine (it's not wine, it's a short coffee), cinnamon water or a lulo juice. Nearby, the name of another square catches our attention, which is Plaza Fernandez de Madrid. The monument in its middle pays tribute to one of the heroes of Colombia's independence in 1811. It is a less known square, but very beautiful due to the vegetation and the colonial houses that comprise it. In addition, several picturesque streets are around it, such as Calle de los Puntales or all those that lead to the legendary Hotel Santa Clara. The old convent has been inscribed with the turbulent history of Cartagena de Indias for half a millennium, something that led García Márquez, as a local reporter, to discover in 1949 a legend that many years later became the novel Of Love and Other Demons. A stone's throw away are the 23 vaults of Santa Clara that, during the battles against the French at the end of the 16th century, served to house soldiers, ammunition and supplies. They are integrated into the defensive wall that surrounds the historic center. So you can start a walk on top of it until you reach the famous Café de Mar, the best place to watch, with a mojito in hand, the sunset over the Caribbean Sea. The essentials of Cartagena de Indias -The Castle of San Felipe de Barajas (1536), protector of the city and symbol of Cartagena's resistance a gainst the invaders. -Plaza de los Coches, the main slave market in Latin America during the colonial era. -The walls, a witness to the history of the city, can be explored in their entirety and have beautiful views of the bay. -The Cathedral of Santa Catalina de Alejandría (17th century), covered in a colorful yellow color and inspired b y some Andalusian and Canarian churches. -The Church and Convent of San Pedro Claver (17th century), consecrated to the “apostle of the slaves”, a m a rtyr who gave his life for the redemption of the slaves. -The Popa monastery (17th century) was the scene of battles and used as a barracks and fort. It owes its n a me to its shape like a ship's stern seen from the bay. -A cocktail on top of the walls at sunset at Café del Mar. -A few dances (or at least a visit) in one of the two most famous salsa venues: the Quiebracanto, the Cafe Havana (they closed it temporarily in August 2021) or the new Tertulia Bar in the Getsemani neighborhood in front of the P plaza de los Cars. Experiencias únicas But 'La Heroica' is not only history, since the city is the scene of a vibrant present that is manifested in important world-class events, which position Cartagena today. One of them is the International Music Festival and the Hay Festival, which is held in January and brings together the main exponents of instrumental music and international literature. Likewise, in 'La Heroica' the International Film and Television Festival takes place in March, an event attended by filmmakers, actors, musicians and fans of the seventh art, and which has free film screenings of the highest level. Without a doubt, all these events are unmissable when looking for what to do or what to visit in Cartagena. Cartagena, Colombia is a vibrant city, with countless perfect plans for all types of tourism. An example of this is the varied gastronomy that the city offers. In this way, the restaurants in Cartagena range from international cuisine restaurants to traditional places where you can try Cartagena delicacies, such as rice with chipi chipi, pork loin in tamarind sauce and prawn cream. In addition, the city has the Caribbean Sea, which allows rest and fun with a always pleasant climate. Another option is also to enjoy the cruises that leave from Cartagena and enjoy the wonderful landscapes of the Colombian coast. Likewise, if you prefer to stay in the city, the beaches near Cartagena are perfect for enjoying a cocktail or a local dish, sunbathing, relaxing or also venturing out to practice all kinds of water sports. Cartagena has more than 5 island complexes around it which in turn provide more than 20 beaches to visit and enjoy. The white sand, the palm trees, the sea breeze and in some cases the coral reefs, will welcome you to these paradises of rest. The main and best beaches in the Cartagena area are located on the Rosario, Barú, San Bernardo and Tierra Bomba Islands. Furthermore, if you want to have contact with the most touristic sector of La Heroica, you can visit Bocagrande, which has large beaches, hotels, restaurants, shopping centers and nightclubs. Finally, keep in mind that Cartagena is a dream destination for weddings and honeymoons. For this reason, the city receives numerous cruise ships that travel through the Caribbean. recommendations The best time or season to travel to Cartagena varies little throughout the year and depends on your interests. January is ideal to enjoy cultural events such as the Hay Festival, a great meeting around writing, and the Cartagena Music Festival. Another great time to visit the beaches and beautiful landscapes of Cartagena is between the end of November and the end of April. A good period considering that the climate is drier and cooler due to the sea breeze. To get to Cartagena de Indias, if you come from abroad, you can take a cruise or a plane. Airlines such as American Airlines, JetBlue, Interjet, KLM, Delta and Copa fly directly to Cartagena's Rafael Núñez International Airport. If you are already in the country, you can take a flight with Avianca, LATAM, VivaAir or Wingo, among others. You can also rent a car from cities like Barranquilla and Santa Marta, with journeys that will take 2 and 4 hours. Getting around is very simple, especially by taxi, since the distances in tourist areas are not very long. However, we recommend that you check taxi prices in advance to avoid inconveniences due to cost overruns. Accommodation options are diverse and include everything from budget hostels to traditional colonial hotels to exclusive boutique hotels. Finally, if you have any questions, go to the numerous information points that you will find in the tourist areas of the city.
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